Go deep in Lijiang: Li sticks to handmade leather works
Most products are now produced by industrialists and are sold online. These ways are more convenient for consumers. Because of that, traditional skills of making leather works are also fading away in our thoughts. However, the traditional skills are reserved in a small shop in the Shuhe ancient town, northwest Yunnan’s Lijiang city.
Li Runliang is making a tippet. (By Window of Ancient Town of Lijiang)
Having run the leather business for more than 5 years, Li Runliang has made her shop familiar among the local Lijiang folks. Li inherited this trade from her father.
The seven-star tippet is a unique costume for Naxi women in Lijiang. It is made of goatskin and consists of a gorget, ribbons, seven star-like discs, and leather streamers. The tippet is a completely handmade stuff that calls for highly skilled workers.
The seven discs on a tippet. (By Window of Ancient Town of Lijiang)
“The goatskin tippets are all handmade. The sun-cured leather should be soaked in clean water and I will cut off some excessive parts when it gets soft,” said Li, adding that it should be cleaned carefully and painted with mirabilite evenly.
Then, Li talked about the following process. The leather is put under the sun. After tanning and sun curing for four to five times, the leather will be white and soft. Finally, it can be tailored.
The goatskin tippet. (By Window of Ancient Town of Lijiang)
Li noted that the patterns on the white ribbons are of cultural connotation. They are mostly farmers, dancers, warriors, butterflies, bees, flowers and fruits. These symbolize the virtues of Naxi women: being hardworking and brave.
Li is 52 years old now. She was born right in Shuhe ancient town. Her father Li Jinfeng is a inheritor of the intangible cultural heritages in Lijiang. Influenced by her family, Li has been interested in leatherwork since girlhood.
After graduation from Junior high school, Li started to learn to make the seven-star tippet in her father’s shop. After a 3-year practice, Li learned to use modern sewing machines and figured out a best way to combine leather with fabric.
Naxi women are wearing the tippets. (By Window of Ancient Town of Lijiang)
“I’ve spent more than 30 years learning from the elder generation and trying to find a new way to combine my traditional skills with modern aesthetics,” said Li, adding this will help the traditional skills exist longer and be better inherited.
Source: Window of Ancient Town of Lijiang; Trans-editing by Wang Yunya