Go Deep in Lijiang: Zhang keeps on making Naxi costume
Having met with Zhang Liyun, a Naxi woman and a Naxi costume maker, we had a deeper understanding of the ethnic costumes of Naxi style.
Zhang started to make Naxi costumes after junior high school, and she has been doing this for more than 30 years.
Zhang Liyun (Photo by Yulong News app)
At school, Zhang wasn’t interested in making costumes, but her grandmother pushed her to try. “At first, I don’t like this trade. I even refused to do so,” said Zhang frankly. Then, she started to take on Naxi costumes, and finally she changed her mind.
“Later, I go to school to learn basic things about making costumes,” laughed Zhang. “I learned about the colors, fabrics, tips on matching and so on.”
The traditional costume for Naxi women involves a slack side-opening inner blouse, a purple sleeveless jacket, a pair of loose pants, a pair of boat-shape embroidered shoes, a pleated apron of dark color, and a goatskin tippet.
Naxi women in traditional costumes. (Photo by Yulong News app)
With time passing by, many new versions came out. Today, the Naxi costumes have changed a lot. They are of both beauty and practicability.
Preserving the traditional elements of the costumes, Zhang also created something new in colors and patterns. His creation has captured young people’s eye.
“Naxi people always pursue beauty,” said Zhang. “Naxi women love to dress themselves up, so the handmade costumes are important.” She added that the old and the young, and even brides would come to buy her handmade costumes.
Naxi women in traditional costumes. (Photo by Yulong News app)
Now, 54-year-old Zhang is the inheritor of making Naxi costumes, which belongs to the list of intangible cultural heritage. “Naxi costume is our soul. The skills were passed down from my grandmother with determination,” said Zhang. “I must pass it on.”
Source: Yulong News app; Trans-editing by Wang Yunya